DIY Dimmable Flood Light (LED Conversion – Powered by Battery or Car)

DIY Dimmable Flood Light (LED Conversion – Powered by Battery or Car)

List of necessary items:
1. Old 20 Watt Flood Light Casing – 1
2. New 20 Watt LED – 1
3. Heat Sink Compound – 1
4. XL6009 Boost Converter – 1
5. 10K Potentiometer – 1
6. Washer (with the center hole big enough to fit the potentiometer knob)
7. 10K Resistor – 2
8. Bolts and Spacers
9. 12 Volt Female Connector – 2
10. 12 Volt Male Connectors – 2 (Optional)
11. Male Car Cigarette Lighter Connector – 1
12. Wires

Wiring Diagram –

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Music: Arrival – MBB
FTC Disclaimer: This video wasn’t sponsored.
WARNING: This video is only for entertainment purposes. If you rely on the information portrayed in this video, you assume the responsibility for the results. Always think ahead.

“After disassembling the flood light, I will remove the LED driver, which will not be of any use for this project. I will also remove the glue which held the LED driver in place. I then removed the waterproof seal for the wire using an adjustable wrench and a plier. I desoldered the connections to the LED and tried to power it ON using external power at 30 volts. But it did not turn ON. This LED is dead. I removed the screws holding it in place, pulled out the LED and wiped of the old heatsink compound. I will replace the LED with a new one, but before I secure it in place, I will add some fresh heatsink compound. Thereafter I aligned it in place, and secured it with the screws”
“Now its time for the boost converter. I used an XL6009 Boost Converter for this project since it can handle upto 3 to 4Amps. I will desolder the small potentiometer in the boost converter. Don’t throw this away, we need to use this as a trimmer potentiometer.
“When you are trying to decide if a specific boost converter will suit your project, you need to calculate it by taking into consideration the input voltage, not the output voltage. In this case, the LED uses 20 Watts, and if I input 12 volts to the boost converter, 20 divided by 12 is around 1.7 amps, which is within the range the boost converter can handle”
“I will use a 10K potentiometer which is normally used in speakers to control the volume, to which I will attach a 10K resistor to its middle Pin. I will then connect a wire to the resistor and another wire to the Pin on the left side of the potentiometer. I will then solder in another 10K Resistor to the middle pin of the potentiometer we removed from the boost converter. I will insert heatshrink tube before I solder, so that I can insulate the connections. I will connect a wire to the resistor of the small potentiometer and another wire to the Pin under the golden knob. Now I will connect those wires to the left and right most contact points to where the small potentiometer was attached to, of the boost converter”
“I thereafter connected 12 volts to the input of the boost converter and connected my voltmeter to the output. I then turned the dimmer potentiometer to the MAX. Afterwards I turned the trimmer potentiometer counter clockwise to get a reading of 30 volts in the voltmeter, since the forward voltage of the LED I am using is 30 Volts. You will need to check on the forward voltage of your LED before applying power. Going over voltage can burn out the LED. Now by turning the Dimmer potentiometer, we can adjust the output voltage from the boost converter, and it maxes out at 30 Volts, thereby keeping the voltage within the range of the LED”
“I soldered in two wires to the terminals of the LED and mounted the boost converter to the casing with spacers and bolts. I thereafter connected the wires from the LED to the output of the boost converter, making sure of the polarity. I soldered in two wires to a 12 volt female connector. Make sure of the polarity when connecting the wires, if you connect it the wrong way, you could damage the boost converter. Afterwards I connected those wires to the Input of the Boost Converter and mounted the 12 Volt Female connector to the casing where I previously drilled a hole to fit the connector”
“I mounted the dimmer potentiometer to the case using a washer since the hole which was previously there to pass the wire for the earlier LED Driver was too big. I screwed everything back in place, and added a knob to the dimmer potentiometer”
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